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THREE SUMMERS BACK, a friend and I were being hurtled
by bus through the heart of Australia, the desert flashing pink and
red before our disbelieving eyes. It never seemed to end, this
desert, so flat, so dry. For days, we saw kangaroos hopping off into
the distance across the parched earth. The landscape was very unlike
ours – scrub growth with some exotic species of cactuses, no
lakes, no rivers, just sand and rock and sand and rock for ever.
Beautiful in its own special way, haunting even – what the surface
of the moon must look like, I thought to myself as I sat there in
the dusk in that almost empty bus.
I turned my head to look out of the front of the bus and was
suddenly taken completely by surprise. Screaming out at me in great
black lettering were the words “Canada Number One Country in the
World.” My eyes lit up, my heart gave a heave, and I felt a pang
of homesickness so acute I actually almost hurt. I was so excited
that it was all I could do to keep myself from leaping out of my
seat and grabbing the newspaper from its owner.
As
I learned within minutes (I did indeed beg to borrow the paper from
the Dutchman who was reading it), this pronouncement was based on
information collected by the United Nations from studies comparing
standards of living for every nation in the world. Some people may
have doubted the finding (what about Switzerland, Denmark, Sweden
and even Australia or New Zealand?), but I didn’t, not for an
instant.
Where else in the world can you travel by bus, automobile or
train (and the odd ferry) for 10, 12 or 14 days straight and see a
landscape that changes so dramatically, so spectacularly. The
Newfoundland coast with its white foam and roar; the red sand
beaches of Prince Edward Island; the graceful curves and slopes of
Cape Breton’s Cabot Trail; the rolling dairy land of south shore
Quebec; the peerless, uncountable maple-bordered lakes of Ontario;
the haunting north shore of Lake Superior; the wheat fields of
Manitoba and Saskatchewan; the ranch land of Alberta; the mountain
ranges, valleys and lush rainforests of the West Coast. The list
could go on for 10 pages, and still only cover the southern section
of the country, a sliver of land compared with the North, whose
immensity is almost unimaginable.
Have
you ever seen the barrens of Nunavut? Have you ever laid eyes on
northern bodies of freshwater vaster than some inland seas, titans
like Great Bear and Great Slave Lakes? Have you ever seen the
icebergs and whales of Hudson Bay, the gold sand eskers of northern
Saskatchewan, northern Manitoba’s rivers, rapids, waterfalls and
10,000 lakes, all with water so clean you can dip your hand over the
side of your canoe and drink it? Have you ever had the privilege of
getting off a plane on a January day at a remote settlement in the
Yukon and having the air hit your lungs with a wallop so sharp you
gasp quite audibly – air so clean, so crisp you swear you see it
sparkle pastel pink, purple and blue in the midmorning light?
It has been six years in a row now that the United Nations has
designated Canada the number one country in which to live. We are so
fortunate. We are water wealthy and forest rich. Minerals, fertile
land, wild animals, plant life, the rhythm of four distinct,
undeniable seasons, the North – we have it all.
Of course Canada has its problems. We’d like to lower our crime
rate, but it is under relative control, and, the fact is, we live in
a safe country. We struggle with our health-care system, trying to
find a balance between universality and affordability. But no person
in this country is denied medical care for lack of money, no child
need go without a vaccination. Oh yes, we have our concerns, but in
the global scheme of things we are so well off. Have you ever
stopped to look at the oranges and apples piled high as mountains in
supermarkets from Sicamous, B.C., to Twillingate, Nfld.? Have you
paused to think about the choice of meat, fish, vegetables, cheese,
bread, cereals, cookies, chips, dips and pop we have? Or even about
the number of banks, clothing stores and restaurants?
And think of our history. For the greater part, the pain and
violence, tragedy, horror and evil that have scarred for ever the
history of too many countries are largely absent from our past.
There’s no denying we’ve had our trials and times of shame, but
dark though they may have been, they pale by comparison with events
that have shaped many other nations.
Our
cities, too, are gems. Take Toronto, where I have chosen to live. My
adopted city never fails to thrill me with its racial, linguistic,
cultural – not to mention lifestyle – diversity. On any ordinary
day on the city’s streets and subway, in stores and restaurants, I
can hear the muted ebb and flow – the sweet chorus – of 20
different tongues. At any time of day, I can feast on food from six
different continents, from Greek souvlakia to Thai mango salad, from
Italian prosciutto to French bouillabaisse, from Ecuadorian empanada
to Jamaican jerk chicken, from Indian lamb curry to Chinese lobster
in ginger and green onion (with a side order of greens in oyster
sauce). Indeed, one could probably eat in restaurants every week for
a year and never have to eat of the same cuisine twice.
And do all these people get along? Well, they all live in a
situation of relative harmony, cooperation and peace. They certainly
aren’t terrorizing, torturing and massacring one another. They’re
not igniting pubs, cars and schools with explosives that blind,
cripple and maim. And they’re not killing children with machetes,
cleavers and axes. Dislike – rancour – may exist in pockets here
and there, but not, I believe, hatred on the scale of such
blistering intensity that we see elsewhere. Is Canada a successful
experiment in racial harmony and peaceful coexistence? Yes, I would
say so, proudly.
Much
as I often love and admire the countries I visit and their people, I
can’t help but notice when I go abroad that most people in France
look French, most in Italy, Italian. In Sweden they look Swedish and
in Japan they look Japanese. Beautiful, absolutely beautiful. But
where’s the variety? I ask myself. Where’s the mix, the spice,
the funk?
Well, it’s here, right here in Canada – my Canada. When I, as
an aboriginal citizen of this country, find myself thinking about
all the people we’ve received into this homeland of mine, this
beautiful country, when I think of the millions of people we’ve
given safe haven to, following agony, terror, hunger and great
sadness in their own home countries, well, my little Cree heart just
puffs up with pride. And I walk the streets of Toronto, the streets
of Canada, the streets of my home, feeling tall as a maple.
Photography
by Kevin Kelly; illustration by Linda Montgomey
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